The crags which make up the Alabama Hills are located in the Alabama Hills
Recreation Area, land which is administered by the Bureau of Land Management.
The BLM have made a success story of climbers and land managers working together
to preserve the environment, archeological and historical sites and traditional
forms of recreation.
Please stay out of the way of other user groups - especially the movie industry.
Stay away from the sets and find another crag if they ask you to move out
of the shot.
The Rock
The
truth is the Alabama Hills are filled with loose rock, except in those areas
that rarely sees the light of day - so most of the climbing is concentrated
in north and east-facing box canyons. The process of case hardening has produced
a baby-butt smooth surface on the rock. Add a little erosion and you get chickenheads,
overhanging jug hauls, thin edging and friction. But not every hold is alike;
some are waiting to snap off and spook you. It adds to the sense of adventure.
With use the rock will clean up, for now proceed with awareness.
Camping
Please do not camp at the crags. The BLM has kindly agreed to keep the beautiful
Tuttle Creek Campground open year round to accommodate climbers. The BLM is
monitoring impacts in the Alabama Hills. Camping and climbing may be eliminated
in the Alabama Hills if it gets out of hand.
And now for a sample of the climbing....
Alabama Dome
North Face (Right to Left)
A: Blockade Runner 5.10c *** Excellent edge climbing. This old
bolt ladder has had the bolts replaced and moved to make it more leader friendly.
6 bolts to chains.
B: Dihedral Dance 5.10c *** Wild steep climbing. 6 bolts to
chains.
C: Gone with the Wind 5.10a *** Arete. The best route on the
crag, possibly one of the best routes in the Hills.
West Face (Right to Left)
D: Virginia Soil 5.9 (TR) Right side of Arete.
E: Southern Man 5.9** Face left of V cracks. 7 bolts.
F: Sweet Home Alabama 5.10a Left V crack. 2 bolt anchor.
G: Sherman's March 5.10b Right V crack. 6 bolts to anchors.
Rap Gone with the Wind
Directions: This excellent rock is located approximately a half mile
south of Whitney Portal Road on Horseshoe Meadows Road. Follow along the north
side of the rocks on your right to a prominent west face with a V crack on
its right side. The north face has the best rock.
From the soon to be published Guide to the Alabama Hills
by Michael Strassman
Rock Climbing > Alabama Hills
